Before I left Wellington, my friends Jane and Peter frequently looked at each other, rolled their eyes and turned to me and said in that knowing way, "You are going to love Seattle, Hilary." (which is worrying because chances are I won't just to be perverse, then what?) But they were right, I love Seattle so much I could marry the city and live here for the rest of my life. This is a city that has taken art and culture to its heart and elevated it to new heights of civic pride.
First nights
They are always unsettling whether a new production, a new lover or a new town. My hotel was described to me at reception as "older style" - meaning not everything works - or, at least, takes a little getting used to after the luxury of Schwab. I'm on the 3rd floor of Inn Queen Anne. There is no lift. There is also no overhead lighting and it takes a while to work our how the bed lamps switch on - they are both different. There is an old radiator but it, along with the fridge, doesn't seem to be working - then I realise I need to plug them in and turn them on! On the up side, I've a corner room with views over the city, and a bathroom with a bath and the most poetic folding of hand towels I've ever encountered. I'm a block away from the Seattle Center: a cultural precinct which includes well-known tourist destinations: the Space Needle, Monorail and Pacific Science Center; it's also home to Seattle's Children's Theatre and Seattle's oldest professional company, Seattle Repertory Theatre - spelt the European way. Everything I want to see is in walking distance (Thanks Rebecca! You did good!) I check out the local paper and circle my "must-sees". But first things first, the local supermarket. This is choice gone crazy. I just want a box of cereal, some milk and fruit. It takes me a good hour!
Experience Music Project
This museum rocks! The architect, Frank Gehry, has designed a building to outdo the Sydney Opera House, Federation Square and Te Papa! It is an expression of sound in visual motion - rolling waves of brightly coloured sheet metal, and tile and glass surfaces that wrap around each other like sound waves. Inside, the museum explores the rich history and current state of popular music. There is a huge tribute to local NW (north west) artists (under renovation) and an exhibition dedicated entirely to Seattle-born Jimmy Hendrix. The exhibits are all interactive - and given this is the home of Microsoft - the technology is highly sophisticated. You can enter a Sound Lab and record your first track, go On Stage and be part of a massive rock concert and leave with your own poster! A sound sculpture of a thousand guitars that can break out into music. An unexpected highlight was a fascinating exhibition - I would never have guessed this - on the making of Battle Star Gallactica. But if that doesn't grab your interest you can learn about the birth of the guitar to the present day.
Dinner for Two
I had forgotten how generous helpings are in the US. (I lived in NYC for a couple of years in the 80s.) This evening I select the local Thai, Phuket and order a soup and my fav - Larb Gai. When the dishes arrive at my table my jaw drops. There is no way I will ever finish these servings. They do things big here and are big-hearted to boot. I don't finish my meal so it is packaged in box to take back to my hotel. I feel very Helen Hunt. But I had forgotten, other than Australia, you can take leftovers with you. (It's a botulism thing in Oz. Heat breeds nasties.) So I get two meals for the price of one! I love a bargain.
Back at Inn Queen Ann, I drop into bed and drift off to sleep with the words of Jimmy Hendrix swirling around in my head. "Imagination is the key."
Tomorrow the Olympic Sculpture Park, Pike Fish Market, Frye Museum and a performance of the American classic "Of Mice and Men" at SRT.
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